# 3d Printable Screw and Nut

**URL:** <https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503>\
**Category:** Share your creations\
**Created:** [June 24, 2025, 6:25am UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503 "2025-06-24T06:25:06Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 18\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![SCALEMODEL](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/77aa72/32.png) [@SCALEMODEL](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/u/SCALEMODEL)\
**Post date:** [June 24, 2025, 6:25am UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503/1 "2025-06-24T06:25:06Z")

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With lot of Trial and Error I believe I came up with most functional and most minimally sized 3d printable screw for the Bambu (lot of Bambu users here) machine at standard .2mm layer with standard .4 nozzle.

If you print without infill, just solid plastic it should be strong enough for most projects.

This design is especially made for this phillips screw, CR-V 2.5, it should fit like a glove.

 ![Pasted Graphic](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex002/uploads/shapr3d/original/3X/f/a/fa9525a105cc8d31ba36455f9e90b77bce10afbd.jpeg)  
 ![image](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex002/uploads/shapr3d/original/3X/b/7/b7dc38ad377c84090d1cfc7b7df2967ccb204b23.png)  
 ![image](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex002/uploads/shapr3d/original/3X/c/5/c54a55d2ccaf96f8d1e9d012dc41208b86855597.jpeg)

I came up with this design because the previous 3d printed screw broke, had a hard time taking it out. I realized if I create continuous through slots, even if it breaks I can still easily unscrew it.

 ![image](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex002/uploads/shapr3d/original/3X/1/4/14c9ee8edd27df50fcf7265c47884f58b0744991.jpeg)

[screw & nut.step](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/uploads/short-url/bub0E6Wk9iaql9fR6z7oJaurmJD.step) (7.6 MB)

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**Author:** ![Xdrakosha](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex002/user_avatar/discourse.shapr3d.com/xdrakosha/32/24881_2.png) [@Xdrakosha](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/u/Xdrakosha)\
**Post date:** [June 24, 2025, 6:36am UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503/2 "2025-06-24T06:36:52Z")

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Is this by design or just glitches in S3D? 🙂

 ![image](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex002/uploads/shapr3d/original/3X/5/3/53b665ce56ae610b4f7f69ed183fbcac26bdb461.jpeg)

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![SCALEMODEL](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/77aa72/32.png) [@SCALEMODEL](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/u/SCALEMODEL)\
**Post date:** [June 24, 2025, 6:42am UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503/3 "2025-06-24T06:42:43Z")

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🫠

Glitch, I did Parasolid that should work.

[screw & nut.x\_t.zip](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/uploads/short-url/k6gwqeNBU0rA93wOMPYz80BRHY0.zip) (369.8 KB)

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![SCALEMODEL](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/77aa72/32.png) [@SCALEMODEL](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/u/SCALEMODEL)\
**Post date:** [June 24, 2025, 2:49pm UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503/4 "2025-06-24T14:49:14Z")

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> [@SCALEMODEL](#):
>
> With lot of Trial and Error

Like a nimrod I came with this because I embedded an 3d printed screw in my camera, broke it and couldn’t take it out. Had a bright idea of using Paint Thinner to melt the PLA in the metal socket but somehow it got through and fried the motherboard. 🥹

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**Author:** ![SCALEMODEL](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/77aa72/32.png) [@SCALEMODEL](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/u/SCALEMODEL)\
**Post date:** [June 25, 2025, 4:58am UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503/5 "2025-06-25T04:58:42Z")

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Here is the Shapr file if you like to adjust parameters via variables.

This is not a thread generator, but just a optimized PLA thread with adjustable size and tolerance adjustments.

  
[Screw & Nut.shapr](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/uploads/short-url/yxmPZqVgmXU0OMGTmp5ippfD0ch.shapr) (530.7 KB)

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**Author:** ![lilyclark](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/eb9ed0/32.png) [@lilyclark](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/u/lilyclark)\
**Post date:** [August 25, 2025, 9:25am UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503/6 "2025-08-25T09:25:02Z")

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Thanks for sharing!I wonder if using PETG or PLA would make a noticeable difference in strength for long-term use.

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**Author:** ![SCALEMODEL](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/77aa72/32.png) [@SCALEMODEL](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/u/SCALEMODEL)\
**Post date:** [August 25, 2025, 6:47pm UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503/7 "2025-08-25T18:47:09Z")

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From what I know PETG is bit stronger, but to be honest I don’t think I ever used PETG, it’s something I heard.

I found Matte PLA the weakest, this will hold matte pla.

My goal wasn’t to create the most robust thing, It just needed to withstand basic uses and when it brakes you can still get it out. I had this break on me many and it was easier to get it out.

I think this is a step above press fit, below higher grade materials.

But if you really needed strength I would embed metal nuts but maybe this better than Superglue.

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**Author:** ![BKE](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex002/user_avatar/discourse.shapr3d.com/bke/32/31690_2.png) [@BKE](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/u/BKE)\
**Post date:** [August 25, 2025, 11:29pm UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503/8 "2025-08-25T23:29:40Z")

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An alternative is Thread Inserts, I find them useful for demos that would be assembled and reassembled repeatedly. If thoughtfully applied they even become be quite strong inserted hot (with or without dedicated soldering tip) or just simply glued into PLA.

 ![2025-08-26 01.18.54](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex002/uploads/shapr3d/original/3X/1/5/1552b75d759c463fd6e30bb0dc3d112a70a925f2.jpeg)

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**Author:** ![Geoffree3](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex002/user_avatar/discourse.shapr3d.com/geoffree3/32/9580_2.png) [@Geoffree3](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/u/Geoffree3)\
**Post date:** [August 26, 2025, 10:29am UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503/9 "2025-08-26T10:29:46Z")

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Brass thread inserts work well as long as they are not positioned too close to an edge. I found that when heating the insert (with soldering iron) it melts about 3-4mm around the insert so allow some space.

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**Author:** ![SCALEMODEL](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/77aa72/32.png) [@SCALEMODEL](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/u/SCALEMODEL)\
**Post date:** [August 26, 2025, 4:07pm UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503/10 "2025-08-26T16:07:46Z")

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The way I do might be not as elegant, little more work but it works.

I just buy 1 pack average M size hex nut and screws, and build a system.

Snap fit the NUT, snap fit to get it in place is enough because it’s pulling the other way, plus no crazy glue or solder mistakes.

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**Author:** ![lilyclark](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/eb9ed0/32.png) [@lilyclark](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/u/lilyclark)\
**Post date:** [August 26, 2025, 4:44pm UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503/11 "2025-08-26T16:44:41Z")

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I’ve mostly used PLA for my daughter’s little train projects, and I agree—it doesn’t need to be super strong, just durable enough for basic play. I’ve heard PETG can handle more stress over time, so maybe I’ll try it for parts that see more wear.

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**Author:** ![Oregonerd](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex002/user_avatar/discourse.shapr3d.com/oregonerd/32/8012_2.png) [@Oregonerd](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/u/Oregonerd)\
**Post date:** [August 26, 2025, 4:54pm UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503/12 "2025-08-26T16:54:42Z")

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PETG has better heat stability than PLA. PLA is not good above 130 F.

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**Author:** ![BKE](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex002/user_avatar/discourse.shapr3d.com/bke/32/31690_2.png) [@BKE](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/u/BKE)\
**Post date:** [August 26, 2025, 6:25pm UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503/13 "2025-08-26T18:25:39Z")

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I use PC polycarbonate for higher stability up to 110°C (230°F) printing at 250-270°C. Also has a higher Shore at  
D 90–95, but it can be more demanding to print. Another unrelated tip is to use a hot-air soldering station for easy and well controlled small adjustments or inserts.

Edit; I found PETG is better of than PLA for kids. Also this: ‘Polycarbonate is generally considered safe for kids, especially in products like eyeglass lenses, which are designed to be impact-resistant and protective. However, caution is advised with polycarbonate containers that may contain bisphenol A (BPA), as exposure to BPA can pose health risks to children’

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**Author:** ![SCALEMODEL](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/77aa72/32.png) [@SCALEMODEL](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/u/SCALEMODEL)\
**Post date:** [August 27, 2025, 1:50am UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503/14 "2025-08-27T01:50:39Z")

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If they are very rambunctious I prefer the TPU!

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**Author:** ![lilyclark](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/eb9ed0/32.png) [@lilyclark](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/u/lilyclark)\
**Post date:** [August 27, 2025, 9:28am UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503/15 "2025-08-27T09:28:37Z")

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Thanks for pointing out the comparison between PETG and PLA for kids’ products, as well as the BPA considerations with polycarbonate. That’s super helpful for planning safer and more durable prints!

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**Author:** ![BKE](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex002/user_avatar/discourse.shapr3d.com/bke/32/31690_2.png) [@BKE](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/u/BKE)\
**Post date:** [August 27, 2025, 12:44pm UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503/16 "2025-08-27T12:44:51Z")

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🙂 I use TPU shore A95 for parts of my cat toy!

 ![Screenshot 2025-08-27 at 14.39.24](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex002/uploads/shapr3d/original/3X/0/4/044697529ebe69b3424ba9dfad2c5142e50ae95f.jpeg)

[felinfun stl.zip](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/uploads/short-url/pq9WeU45PSSLi6aoAswl7SIMKgy.zip) (106.7 KB)

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**Author:** ![lilyclark](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/eb9ed0/32.png) [@lilyclark](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/u/lilyclark)\
**Post date:** [August 29, 2025, 11:26am UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503/17 "2025-08-29T11:26:27Z")

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This just reminded me — I’ve been struggling to find suitable cat toys lately, so maybe I could try using TPU as well.

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**Author:** ![SCALEMODEL](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/77aa72/32.png) [@SCALEMODEL](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/u/SCALEMODEL)\
**Post date:** [August 31, 2025, 7:07am UTC](https://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/3d-printable-screw-and-nut/38503/18 "2025-08-31T07:07:02Z")

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TPU is pretty cool.

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