I’m trying to export a 2D drawing as a DXF so I can upload it to SendCutSend.com
With the drawing created I go to export it as a DXF to my Files app on my IPad.
It shows up there and I’m able to import that same file to Shapr3D perfectly fine.
When I go to SendCutSend.com I attempt to upload the DXF file to their instant quote system. I can see the DXF file but it will not let me select it for upload.
Where am I going wrong here?
Ok. I’ve used them and also OSHCut.com. The issue I’ve had is that all DXF files must be from the Top View. You’ll need to rotate any side views to the Top view, then export all views from there. Try that, and let us know. McD
Also, if I recall, they don’t support the upload off the iPad. You’ll need to go to a computer. 
My Process To Export DXF (or other formats) for Laser Cutting, CNC, Waterjet, etc.
Note: the export will be in two dimensions in this example as items are to be cut, not 3D machined. These steps were developed for the iPad version of Shapr3d, but should be similar on the other platforms.
Preparation & Overall Guidance
Create a free account at viewer.autodesk.com, as well as at your machine shop of choice (sendcutsend.com, xometry.com, etc.).
Start with a small object or small set of objects until you are comfortable with the process.
sendcutsend and some of the other services operate so quickly that you may not have an opportunity to cancel the order if you have made an error, e.g. if you sent a file with your object specified as 20 x 15 millimeters rather than the 20 x 15 inches you intended.
Steps to Export Your Design
Open the design in Shapr3D. Make sure your sketches are accurate - we will be exporting the sketches, not the objects. If necessary, hide the objects. (In this process as I describe it the objects will not be exported, so hiding is only to help you validate the sketches.)
The cutting equipment will be working from the top, so rotate your sketches, if needed, so that the top view shows the outline of your parts.
Tap the export button in the upper left - the Export window opens.
By default the “Usage” tab is selected under the window heading. Tap “Format” instead. Tap the file type (DXF in my case).
The “Export DXF” window opens. This is almost the same as the the “Export DXF” window that will open if you use the “Usage” tab and select “DXF for a Drawing”, but they are NOT the same and the functionality is different.
Do not change the file name (displayed below the window header, typically “Drawing”) at this time.
By default the “Drawing” tab is selected below the default file name. Tap the “Sketches” tab instead. Notice how the options change.
Change the file name now. If you had changed it earlier then it will revert back to Drawing after you tap the “Sketches” tab.
Change the defaults if you need to, but do NOT change from TEXT to BINARY under the Advanced Options (it is the only Advanced Option at this time) as this will create a .dxb file instead of a .dxf. Some applications cannot read .dxb.
Tap “Continue” at the window’s bottom - this opens the “Save This File” window. Tap “Save to Files”, choose the appropriate folder and tap “Save” in the upper right. The “Save This File” window remains open which may give the impression that the file has not been saved. Look in the folder you selected to confirm that the new file is there. I typically save to my iCloud Drive so that I can open files exported from my the iPad on my computer.
Validate the File
I typically do this on the computer, not the iPad, as sendcutsend sometimes has problems recognizing files on the iPad.
Go to viewer.autodesk.com and login. Drag-and-drop or browse to open your file via the blue “Upload new file” button in the upper right.
Make sure the sketches look correct.
Click the “Measure” button in the row at the bottom of the screen then make sure the “Distance” button, which will pop up in a new row above the row containing “Measure”, is active.
Click the starting point of a line of your choosing, then drag (not click-drag) to the end of that line, click again and confirm that the measurement is as you expect. You can close viewer.autodesk.com now.
Login to sendcutsend.com (or your selected service) and upload your file. Use their tools to validate that your objects are sized correctly and in the correct unit of measure (inches or millimeters). Sendcutsend will open a “Verify Units” window that shows the total length, total height (width?) and the units of measure of all objects in the .dxf file.
Walk thru the steps to complete your order.
That’s It ! Good luck.
I don’t understand the need for viewer.autodesk. I do get the reason to use the PC for both SendCutSend and OSHCut, as they have not developed the iPad interface. I simply save my files to iCloud, access them via my PC, then export them to either laser cutter. I do my designs in inches, and haven’t ever had an issue at either fabricator with units. McD
Thanks for your feedback. The viewer.autodesk steps are optional. I found it helpful the first time to validate the length of edges. Sendcutsend only provided the total width and length of the metal plate/sheet, and with 14 distinct objects in the drawing (to be cut from one sheet), I wanted to fully insure my $ would not be misspent if some sizing was off.
I’m new to shapr3d, and would like to send a file to
sendcutsend(SCS) for an estimate. Just curious.
First time, so, I want to avoid the ipad method.
And I want to use shapr3d -to- sketchup 2020 on mac -
-to- whatever is next, dxf to SCS website…
I don’t know:
Sadly, I probably know more about shapr3d,
after just discovering it, than 2 years with sketchup.
Do I even need sketchup, or anything, using mac shapr3d?
My file is more or less a 1/8th inch thick rectangle,
with 3 holes. (5” x 3” - diamond shaped)
So, if anyone has a recipe for SCS using shapr3d mac,
sketchup if needed, much obliged.
18 aug 2022 @ 1330
You must export the individual components from the TOP view only. Export them using the Sketches command, not the drawing Command. The export as DXF. You’ll need to upload the dxf file using a PC, or maybe it will work with a Mac, but it won’t upload with an iPad. I use SendCutSend as well as OSHCut.com
Thanks McD,
It works fine on Shapr3d on the mac.
Just like you say,
put the sketch on the top view,
export it to a dxf file format,
I saved mine to the desktop,
go to SCS, or your choice of cut shop,
I dragged it to SCS and got an estimate very quickly.
I was confused about how it would know to cut the
bevels in my model. But of course it only cuts
out the metal. Duh…
They do, do other things like tapping and powder
coating, and so on.
Bending too! I use OSHCut the most.
Sorry to jump in late. DXF is a format developed by AutoDesk so running your exports through one of their products is a good workflow step to help iron out parts of your export that will cause errors in fabrication systems.
I’ve never done this, and haven’t ever had an issue. But I’ve been doing manufacturing all my life, and have been using Shapr3D for quite a while now.
Hey!
I just discovered something.
Using ipad browser, if you tap the 3 dots,
up top,
then select the two rectangles in the center,
another window opens,
where you can select your files folder,
then presto! - you can drag your dxf to
sendcutsend, or the other one.
I’m in love…
OSHcut…I always forget to look.
btw, you can drag that window away,
or double tap home, then swipe up
This is great, I’ve been trying to get it to work for two days, and your post made it work like clock work. Thank you
Bravo! A game changer! Thank you for sharing!
So I was struggling to find a way to draw bend lines that SendCutSend’s automated quoting system would acknowledge and today, I FIGURED IT OUT! Now this may be something that was already public knowledge but I had tried and failed a number of times. Here are the steps I found to work:
Raise one half of your body, along your intended bend line by .001" to create a line across your intended bend line OR make small half circle notches on either side of your intended bend line.
Create a 2D Drawing in a 1:1 scale (being sure to turn off “Include Base Views”).
Once you’ve created the drawing, go to your “Drawing Preferences”, scroll down, and turn off both “Title Block” selections.
You can now select “Views” then “Top” or “Bottom”. If your part is bigger than the simulated piece of paper in the background, it will not show up on the DXF file. It is okay to see the white rectangle behind your part.
Once you have your part’s view selected, select “Geometries” and depending on which method you used from the first step, select “2-Point Centerline” or “2-Line Centerline”.
You can now select the two points along your bendline (which are either the tangencies on either side of your bend line or the center of the radius of your notches on either side of your bend line). A dashed line should have appeared across your intended bend line once these are selected.
The last step is to export the file as a DXF and upload it to SendCutSend. You should see a dashed line across the bend line in their automated quoting system and have the ability to select “Add Bending” once the part has been added to your cart.
Fryer, if you use the sketch command, instead of the drawing, turn off dimensions, and use the Top View, it works very well. The Drawing choice has other info which is not needed.
Maybe I misunderstood, are you referring to exporting the original sketch as a DXF? The problem I was having was that SendCutSend wouldn’t recognize any markings on my sketch as bend lines. My walk through above, if we can call it that, was how I was able to mark a 2D drawing and save it as a DXF to work around that issue.
Fryer, yes, export the original as a DXF, from the Sketch menu option. If you are bending something, they need a reference line to which they can measure off of. Their bending feature is not ideal, but it works with some additional info.
For example, in the attached bracket, the SendCutSend or OSHCut.com engines don’t know where to bend without a reference. So I had to add the tabs on each end. Once I did that, their online app was able to bend the part. I planned to grind off the tabs afterward, but they ended up looking good, so I left them.
Also a good work around! The way I did it allowed me to avoid any re-work though. In a pinch I’ll try your method out. Was just hoping to share the way I found that allowed me to order the parts without any significant changes. Hope it helped
