My range hood lighting sucks. Since I’m limited by 12 volt, camper style hoods AND because they ALL have sucky lighting, I am making my own using “ring LEDs”. Adding modes controlled with a push button and an ON/OFF switch potentiometer dimmer.
The ring LED shown are RGB. They do not produce a satisfying white light economically.
Adafruit company released NEOpixel ring LEDs with 4 addressable color. RGB and White. They were out of stock so I put the project aside. Finally have some on the way so the project continues. The RGB consume ~60ma per LED to produce bright white. The 4 color will reduce that to ~20-30ma for bright white I believe. I will be using an off the shelf 12v to 5v buck converter.
I whipped up a prototyping block for my potentiometer with Shapr and printed it. about 45 minutes start to finish. If I could find a potentiometer with an ON/OFF switch and momentary push switch that would be ideal.
Now to research what printer filament for the clear cover for the LEDs and circuitry that will put up with some heat.
I am moistly doing this for fun and to keep my aging brain from going soft. Shapr does help!!!
For LEDs like this I think you could get away with translucent PLA, translucent PETG should do just fine. I’ve used translucent PETG for various LED covers and never had an issue with it warping.
However, if these are bright enough, you may want to just use a non-translucent material to get some light diffusion going. I’ve made a photography lighting rig with LED boards and used just matte PLA as diffusion sheets to get more even lighting. A single 0.2mm layer.
Looks good! I like it.
Being as it is in the range hood It might have to be at least PETG and more likely ABS. I’ll be monitoring the temp above the stove top for a couple days. I can make the framework out of black ABS and use glass for the LEDs. I have the glass, tools and know how.
Oooh! I just now realize what a “range hood” is! It’s the fume extractor above a stove, right? Sorry, language barrier. 
So probably not PLA then.
ABS has decent heat resistance, you could also use PC for a glass frame. It’s a few degrees better still than ABS.
Fibre-reinforced Nylon also has a very good heat deflection temperature, so PA-CF or PA-GF would be an option as well.
Which one won’t stink up my little shop for a week?
Well that pretty much rules out PC.
Honestly, I don’t print any of those without air filtration. PC, PA and ABS are all nasty, ABS probably the least though.
FWIW, you might want to check out Taulman T-Glase (a PETT co-polyester). Great clarity, comes in tinted colors and relative easy to print- no fumes. Close to ABS as far a heat resistance.
I have 2 air filters running all the time. 1 just for my PC. I hate cleaning my case.
I was getting respiratory issues with PLA and PETG with open bed slingers.
When I used an open bed slinger, I had it running in one of those tent enclosures. Better than nothing, plus it made it less susceptible to drafts and changes in ambient temperature.
For my current printer which is an enclosed core-XY one, I found a great deal on a creality air filter. Had to print my own adapter, but now I can print anything without stinking up the place.
Made the adapter to have a rotating valve, so I can either direct the exhaust straight out or through the air filter, depending on the filament.
That looks like a winner! However seems they faded from existence. They sold it in lbs.
I like it. I was going to something similar.
I want to do something with Dryer vents. Been around for a century(?) and still the same old hose clamp and crimped sheet metal coupling pretty much.
I’ve got a push-in and easy twist a 1/2 inch with magnet locking idea rolling around in my head right beside the mothballs.
NO MORE HOSE CLAMPS!
Now my new little shop AC has thread in connectors for the transitions that worked pretty good but the hose has tighter windings. Pretty slick.
I’ve seen a few really neat setups with just magnets, no twist locking at all. You put a couple of decent Neodymium magnets on both sides of the coupling, that’s easily enough to hold an air hose. We’re not dealing with massive pressures.
Yeah I was thinking more about something falling back there and disconnecting them. Then it can be a mess.
I’ve had this fan forever. It’s from an old computer or mainframe cabinet I think. I’ve been wanting to make a fume exhaust system with it. Works great for being so old.
My Adafruit 2862 Natural White RGBW rings arrived and are they fantastic. Super bright on the white channel. Current draw test tomorrow. I’m going to have to get some of these LED chips for custom PCB designs.
They put the solder points in strange place on the PCB. Sure they had their reasons.
They work great. Now to find small gauge 105c rated “copper” wire. Too much of that aluminum clad with copper crap going around. Buyer beware! If you are a bread boarder do not get pre-cut jumper kits from Amazon! They won’t push into a quality bread board. And most of the bread boards sold by Amazon are junky too IMO. I have Jameco bread boards that are 35 years old that are better than the new ones. Tarnish and all.
