Following on from the sister thread. This presents a more challenging print design perhaps. In respect of the desire to print it horizontally.
Please feel free to share your thoughts.
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First iterations = fail!
Parts obviously too small.
First failed to print on Snap U1. Second increased sized redesigned slightly printed but no movement.
Probably need to go bigger, but then the hinge is getting bigger that the object I’d be looking to use it on.
Thinking to go down to 0.2mm nozzle. Have one for the Bambu A1s.
Anybody got different nozzle sizes working on the SnapmakerU1. Will look that up on their discord..
I wonder if you could bridge the middle part without any in-built supports at all. If you print it in PLA and really slow it down for that bit, I think it could work cleaner. Doesn’t look like it’s more than a centimeter or two to bridge and you won’t have any superfluous material in there that will seize it solid.
Also, the bottom built-in support may need to be a bit wider. You still have a very steep overhang on the start on the beige part, that probably doesn’t help.
Thanks for the suggestion. Yes might get it to bridge. Perhaps I will just print a small part of that and see.
You’ve just sparked a thought in my mind! Thank You.
That might work, neat idea!
What occurred to me is that you could do a mix of both techniques, bridging and support. You just do pre-designed supports at intervals along the hinge and then bridge the gaps from support to support. That would let you have a lot less binding between the moving parts and still be able to make as long a hinge as you want.
The supports then could be as thin as a line width or two.
These slicer software are very clever. Here its identifying the bridge and changing the print pattern accordingly (credit @DrKronos ) for the idea!
Whether or not I need to stop / cut off the pin so early perhaps trial and error - I didn’t want any potential sagging to connect.
Printed but won’t budge. Close but no cigar. 
I designed a puzzle shaped box with 4 interlocking corners that are each individual containers. Printing 4 separately they fit perfectly. Printing 4 together? I could not get them apart even with a hammer. And I used to be a pipe fitter. I hit hard! PLA.
It’s not the prettiest, but I’ve just done a test print on this version and it works OK. The minimal built in supports break off fine, leaving the hinge to rotate freely. The tapered hinge pin has surprisingly little play in the “barrel” as it still maintains a reasonable contact on the rounded edges.
Maybe it’s an idea to build on.
Cool @Piercyc87 - Nice Job!
Got mine working as well with a slight mod on the interface.
As you say something to keep refining and work into a project somewhere.
@3DFG I think what i like about your solution is the potential to include some teeth for set positions. Also I love a click!
@Fawksey3D - That’s a great idea, definitely one to try out!
In the interest of sharing designs, here’s a print-in-place-hinge is did in early 2019. First, some context. At that time I was a few months new to Shapr3D and a couple months new to 3D printing. Quite the newbee indeed.
I had no idea what I was doing, merely experimenting. This design was for a game a design buddy of mine came up with. The hinged part holds a 1/4" wooden dowel and only needs to rotate 90°. The clearance at the hinge is .030" (.76mm).
I bought a Lulzbot TAZ6 3D printer equipped with a .05mm nozzle which is now a legacy printer. It came with a version of Cura which I used only a couple of times as I bought and used Simplify3D and never looked back. I recall using auto-supports and the part printed nicely. It was printed with Hatchbox PLA at a layer height of around .35mm. Quite course when looking at the finished parts.
The hinged pieces were pretty much stuck to the housing. Wiggling the hinge pieces finally broke loose and it actually worked quite well for a prototype assembly. It was not a smooth hinged movement given the design clearance, but it did move satisfactorily. Again, I had no idea what I was doing but it did the job. I’m sharing this as an alternate design for a print-in-place-hinge.
I think we got some good input on this thread and I certainly learned some stuff. Thanks to everybody that contributed.
Please feel free to add and I may circle back- but in keeping with my aim of keeping the 3d printing topic energised I going to start a new line of enquiry.