Hi All, Thank you in advance for your help.
First, I am not new to 3D modeling, but I began learning Shapr3D a couple of weeks ago so there might be a tutorial out there that discusses this.
The complication on this particular project is splitting a body or model made entirely of compound curves.
I would like to split the model for 3D printing so I can assemble it Lego block style. In other words with alignment pins.
Welcome to the forum.
Create a Construction Plane and place it where you want to split the part.
Then use the Split Body tool.
Ok, Thanks,
But I will still need alignment for assembly.
Iām thinking pins, or perhaps some sort of compound plane. Iām not sure how to handle that in Shapr3D.
I 3D print parts all the time where I need to split them beforehand.
I can help you out. Where do you intend to do the split?
Another possibility would be to use Prusa Slicer (free). There you can split your body and add alignment pins (various types) that will automatically create the alignment holes.
Looks like quite a complicated model for 3d printing but entirely doable. If I may offer some suggestionsā¦
I would divide this into 7 separate parts by doing the following.
-Split the body using the center āHubā circumference as one part.
-Then split the āFinā into 2 parts so that thereās a flat surface for printing on to eliminate the need for supports.
-You can then add pins or offsets to create profiles that align the parts where they would intersect.
Edit: Since the fins are all the same you only need to modify one of them and print the parts 3 times. Then use the circular pattern tool on the hub for the alignment feature.
Thanks Mike,
The screen shot above is somewhat representative of what I want to create. I would like to split the hub into 13 parts. A central hub and each of the 3 blades divided into 4 parts. The blades will be split down the length and across.
Alignment is important because of rotation.
Not sure how large the part is, but if its of a reasonable size I would print it a couple of ways.
I assume you are FDM printing as opposed to resin printing.
First, I would do a test print with the part positioned upside down and use supports. To maintain stability use a brim. Then evaluate if the support remnants are an issue.
The other method would be to split as you like however why not print the 3 blades whole, on one edge, again using a brim for stability. Four parts on the print bed.
Is your intended āLego styleā pin assembly permanent?
Hi Mike.
Iāve printed the above model, (I sized it so I could) using PLA, upside down as you suggested, without adhesion, and 50% support. It printed fine and is happily rotating at about 500 rpm. The model I intend to print is a half a meter in diameter. not 200mm like the previous model.
The pins are permanent the parts super glued together.
Lego type pins can work but youāll need to fine tune the fit given 3D printed tolerances to deal with. Would you consider a simple lap joint for a positive fit and alignment? Hereās a Q&D example. Also shown how it could be printed.
Hi Bob, thanks for your help.
I just downloaded Prusa Slicer and havenāt discovered how to slice and pin, alignment hole a model.
Do I just load up a full-size model and have it cut down to size?
Wow Mike thanks!
It can be done in Prusaslicer, but itās much harder to control. Much easier and repeatable in Shapr. If you can share the model I can modify it how Iād do it. Iām sure @TigerMike and maybe others would probably also give it a go so you have options, or at least examples.
HI AP,
Ok, Give me a few hours to complete the new model. And Iāll post here. Itās only a blade right now.
Ok here goes
This is a volumetric wind turbine of my own design. It can capture wind from any direction. some directions work better than others.
This can get you started https://help.prusa3d.com/article/cut-tool_1779
As Alex and Mike have suggested, you might be better off in Shapr3D. In S3D, you can split a body with a face, so if you select, for instance, the cylindrical hub, you can use that as a splitting surface.
Piggybacking off this, itās also easy to selectively align things. ie, using a 3 point plane for instance can get you on the edge of the fillet, then you can move and rotate that plane into the final position dimensionally. Overall much more control. In Prusaslicer itās very difficult to align the splitting plane accurately and can only be done in a plane, not on a round surface as mentioned above.
Thanks Iāll check it out!
Bob, thanks for sharing the link. I have 3 Prusa printers and Prusaslicer is top notch. The only unique features Iāve used so far is adaptive layers and āpaintingā areas for localized supports. Thanks for the tip!
Hey Mike, a couple others you might want to look intoā¦ Prusa Connect. It integrates with PS and their newer printers. Instead of exporting your gcode, you can wirelessly send it directly to your printerās queue, putting the code on the printer ready to go. No more āusb-sneaker lan!ā 
Another is putting text or svg files on your prints. Easy to wrap on weird shapes so you can emboss along a contour.
Enjoy the rest of your weekend!
