Sure do not laugh.
Now I put on my IKEA Designer hat, I been to Ikea more than Home Depot FYI.
- I would not design it with solid block of wood, too expensive.
- Core would be metal frame.
- Wood would be just panels.
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I was thing similar: welded tube frame and bored oak (or 4 pieces glued to make a hollow 4" x 4" members to fit over the tubes.
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So if you look at my versions and the evolution it got thicker and thicker it was because I thought metal core would do the trick.
So from there, wood thickness would be just an illusion.
But Iâm also no Metalsmith.
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Nah, as a woodworker I can accomplish it much cheaper than having to outsource a welder to make me a metal frame and then attaching wood to the outside.
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But can you make it stand the test of time for itâs intended use? Within the constraints of the original design? A robust design? Iâve seen and had a few EXPENSIVE tables that just didnât hold up.
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So here was my thought process from the beginning.
I looked at the sample picture, noticed WAYFAIR so shouldnât be that expensive, so I concluded glass would cost the most. I have bought things from Ikea just for the glass.
There should be 1 long wood and 4 other pieces that join and when you look at it should be 90degrees rotated, you can see gaps where it all meets, so you can tell this was factory manufactured.
So that wood is fake, taking the IKEA logic there must be some heavy duty locking screw embedded in the fake wood, doesnât even need to be tight since weight of the glass is putting pressure and naturally stable as long as there is something that holds it in place. Iâm pretty sure if some kid stands on top of it either the glass or the legs will break, but s**t happens.
My double x leg example is bit different vs the WAYFAIR, First its bigger! Have no idea how heavy it is, Iâm not Glassworker, but can guess its very heavy. Iâm sure there is some formula to figure out material strength, also there should be some hidden reinforcement embedded if itâs all wood.
I never made an expensive table or manually any table but just simple logic someone would use. Also fail and you know what to do for the second table.
Guestimate says itâs 3/8" glass minimum. Probably 60" diameter based on est 20" seat length. Est glass weight would be 50-70 lbs.
I build high end custom furniture, I can absolutely make it so it lasts and can support a piece of glass. The wayfair piece is cheaply made using crap wood and stained. I never doubted being able to build it, just needed help with the rendering aspect.
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Was not doubting you he was doubting me (designers)! 
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So I watched the video on assembly. Supposedly has 260lb load capability. Okay, I could be wrong. It might last. 260lb load, dead center, sure. 1 year warranty. (https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/wade-logan-betthezel-54-pedestal-dining-table-fbya1634.html?piid=88545555)
Maybe that will help to understand the angle, if you didnât yet.
35 degree is not 100% accurate angle. If your cutter have ability to set more precise angle then you can calculate more precise using this technique.
My calculation shows the angle of 35.2644 degree 
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To understand geometry deeply I recreate same result but from other end
I made 1 piece with all necessary cuts and then positioned it in space as it should be. After that used circular pattern and get the result.
Cuts were done as I described in previous post.
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In case you want to do marking before the cut.
So, if the beam is 50x50 mm, we need to mark two âcirclesâ (so to speak â since itâs a square beam): the first one at 50 mm from the end, and the second one at 2Ă50 mm, which is 100 mm from the end. These circles donât necessarily need to be drawn â theyâre just to help visualize where the cut lines will pass.
Once weâve marked or imagined those two âcirclesâ, we need to draw diagonal lines. On two adjacent sides of the beam, draw a 45-degree line from the edge to the 50 mm point. On the other two sides, draw lines from the 50 mm point to the 100 mm point.
The actual cut should follow these angled lines.
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Since my limited knowledge in woodworking is more skewed towards architectural/carpentry.
I see the Wayfair video, it was fitted and held in place by gravity.
You might find this asian style carpentry video either Horrifying or Entertaining.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0DJN6C1NW0
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So, beams are my thing. I can literally school you here. In 8 months I went from temp agency worker to foreman at a glue-lam beam plant. Finding people who can read blueprints correctly⌠That in between 20 years of construction.
IMO The cross section area at the joint is significantly larger and better âengineeredâ here. Notice the tension zone of the cantilevered end is put on the top. The undisturbed wood grain at the top will flex better without splitting the beam so easily on the downward force. And flex it must. The way it is supported by the vertical post also helps. And In this case the load will always be relatively constant.
IMO as long as no one puts a significant load off center of that table, it will survive (sorry sex on the table not recommended: check your warranty 
). The top portions of the X are bolted to the glass by aluminum billets that are UV cured glue, that will help somewhat as it creates the strength we know triangles have. The bottom portions of the X do not have that advantage for aesthetics reason.
On the Japanese construction, If you move the post to the end of the cant and put a significant load over the the cut joint, the beam has a greater chance to split there. One or two of the Wayfair legâs cuts for the joint will have inverted cantilevers and they are the weak points in this design.
On the Wayfair legs, when you glue wood together to make members, often you put the best wood outside and filler (junkier wood) inside. Economics. Orders from accounting.
So now I would ask with your experience, build/design me a nice looking table.
Im available for hire!
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