Since everyone’s sharing what 3D Printers they have. I have the Bambu Lab P1P, Creality K1 and K1 Max and some other slower printers im upgrading like the KP3S Pro, BIQU B1 and the CR-30 Print Mill, im also looking to get a resin printer
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I done some research regarding 3D printing. I have a question, that “ can I 3D print models directly through my iPad or I have to install another app?”
It depends on what printer you’ll choose. For example Bambulab printers have mobile app where you can choose one of your models and start printing it.
I am going to buy a Elegoo Neptune 4 max ! So am I able to print it through my iPad?
Can’t tell you, I haven’t own this one.
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You might want to research that. Also you want to research their tech support. Prusa’s is among the best. Even when using 3rd party addons and mods they help or try to help.
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@Rohan, not to mention that Prusa offer’s Input Shaper for faster printing. Want fast? Install a larger diameter nozzle if quality not that important for big prints.
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Another vote for the Bambou X1 Carbon. The key thing about the Bambou products is that while they are expensive, they don’t require much fiddling out of the box. They work right away.
I wouldn’t recommend to buy X1C. It’s better to buy two P1S for almost the same price but you’ll get the same printer but twice.
X1 it’s only about bigger colour screen, lidar (which I would prefer to disable) and 1080p camera instead of 720p.
P.S. for people who haven’t seen these printers, they have slicer based on prusa’s, they fast (up to 500 mm/s) and have input shaping, noise cancelation and so on.
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Well, the carbon comes with the AMS though. I don’t do action figures or anything like that, but I use the AMS more than I ever thought I would. I do a lot of mechanical fixture design, and some have to be printed out in white and some in black, and I love being able to just select the filament on the fly instead of manually unloading and loading again. Also, if I have a couple of rolls of black in the AMS, it will finish one roll and switch to the next, which is great for large prints or finishing up partial rolls without attending it. I can’t even guess how much time it has saved me.The carbon also comes with a hardened steel nozzle and gears, which is necessary for some filaments.
I don’t care about the camera, and don’t use the phone app anyway, but I love the Carbon screen.
Print quality is identical as far as I can tell. I keep my filament dry, and failed prints are few and far between.
That said, if I was going to buy just one printer, I’d get the P1S and add the AMS and upgrade a few components, and save $400-$500. But if I was buying two or more, I’d get one Carbon and the rest would be P1S for production runs.
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You can buy P1S with AMS that’s not a problem. Also there is X1C without AMS. X1C with AMS called X1C combo.
That’s also can be easily installed on P1S or even P1P. That addition costs about $20.
So this is the only real difference between X1 and P1 series.
I wouldn’t buy even one 
Don’t see real necessity in that “big screen”
How much experience do you have with 3D printers? How much tweaking and assembly do you want to do to get the printer running well? My neighbor has never owned a 3D printer, knew zero about them, and was printing parts in under an hour after getting it home from the store. Nowadays maybe there are other printers that can do that for a complete newbie, but I haven’t heard of any that are as easy as the Bambou printers. Kind of like Mac for us computer illiterate people
I have no experience with 3D printers 
. This is my first time buying it ! The only things that I need the most are ; speed and 400X400 mm bed size ! So there are only few great printers with that bed size ! After comparing elegoo vs creality vs anycubic . Elegoo stands out ! It has almost the same features as others with lower price tag !
Even with speed, large volume prints can take 100 to 200 hours or more.
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Since you replied to my message I presume you asked me. So here is my answer.
Babmulab is my 4th FDM printer. Before it I had Creality Ender 3, Anycubic 4MAX, Anycubic cobra 2 pro. Also I own mSLA printer right now and had others before.
In total I 3d printing about 5 years already. First printers were reassembled totally.
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Yes, you are right Sir! But prusa printer takes 6 hours to complete a small job but the elegoo takes only 3 hours to do the same job ! That is the main difference!
You have used this printer! Are there any issues with it ? I was planning to buy that but after searching I found out that it has some terrible software experience!
A lot of issues. But if you’re newbie you won’t even notice most of them.
That’s true. That’s why I removed controller and replace it with BigTreeTech. Then compiled and flashed my own marlin firmware. Also changed the screen. After these modifications it became usable.
In general that was quite good printer which printed about 1000 hours and then I sold it.
But I wouldn’t recommend to buy it today. Much-much better to buy Bambulab P1 or X1.
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The best printer of that size and class is going to be a Troodon 2.0. it comes almost fully assembled and will cost you around $1200. However it is a bit short at 350mmx350mm. If You MUST have 400mm then the only high quality rig that can be made to do whatever you want is going to be a ratrig vcore3. You will have to build the machine and it will be outside your budget for sure. I built a 500mm for about $3000 after enclosure panels and some other mods and accessories. It takes alot of time and effort though to build this type of machine. Not to be taken lightly. Large format printers (400mm and higher) are very hard to find if not impossible in that price range. Yes there are 1 or 2 as probably mentioned but these are very cut down low end printers and will have limited capability without heavy modifications. Consider this too- why does it need to be 400mm? You can print a 495mm object diagonally on a 350mm squared machine. Does this help?
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Yes, on my Bambu Labs P1P (1 year old and hardly even fails - if it does it’s my fault like not replacing the build plate!) printing diagonally you can get almost 320mm on a 256x256 plate. Also, think about making out of smaller components and fixing together (e.g. with set screws with tapped holes or brass inserts). This does mitigate to some extent the tragedy of failures during really long print times - of course near to the end 
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