A little bit of background info: I’m new to this CAD game. Although I’ve had Shapr3d for the last year, my designs have been very simple. But lately I’ve had cause to do something more complex (for my level of experience ) and I’m struggling to work out the simplest way to achieve it.
In my experience simplicity is something achieved by having lots of time doing something. Since I have almost none, I think I’m overcomplicating this design. On to the actual problem…
I have a hole in a piece of metal, and I’d like to fill said hole with a 3d printed design. The simpler I can make the construction, the faster the print, and the less likely there will be problems.
The hole could be covered at one end by a flat base, but at the other end, there’s a curve that using a flat base would mean I can’t attach the print very well (I’ll just tape it to the back side of the metal). Here are some pictures to show you what I mean, with various fillings and experimental prints
My latest design attempt had a base that was flat at the front and curved at the rear, with a loft between the two points. I then tried to ‘sit’ a curved surface — like the black thing you see in one of the photos — on top of it. Which is really hard as the surface isn’t flat
So my question is, how would you experienced designers go about this in Shapr? Here’s the share (erm, does this share the drawings too? I clicked the button to share 2D drawings — if it doesn’t please let me know how to share the whole lot if you’re interested in taking a look). This would be OK, but it’s looking like being a 20hr print It’d be preferable if it were simpler and therefore a shorter print.
Many thanks for any hints and tips you can proffer, I’ll be eternally grateful for the education!
First off, a wider shot might be helpful to understand purpose which helps us intuit the way to help you. A profile shot as well. You give us a head on shot, but less indicated is the side profile.
In your second pic with the printed part, I would import that picture into shapr to draw the outline of the hole to be filled over it.
Trick is to scale it properly by measuring landmarks, like the 2 pointy ends and the width, draw lines that match those measurements for reference to help scale the image for drawing over accurately.
To make your part fast to print, your slicer (and shapr) can cut parts. By doing that your could orient the cuts down on the bed and print them vertically and then glue them together, just for the prototype until you have the design you want.
Switch your infill to “cubic” for faster printing. Also decrease perimeters for the prototype for faster printing.
…I guess my question is more about 3d design process versus the actual hole. The hole is just for context. Here’s another image that might help you see it better though:
Thanks for the tips with 3d printing too, I’ll take a look at those! (incidentally, my test prints have been at a vastly reduced infill than I would use for the end product. I’m also printing PLA, whereas I’ll use PETG for the final item).
You might want to try PLA + instead of PETG. It is extremely tough. I made a puzzle box and printed all the parts in place without enough tolerance. I could not get them apart. I even tried a hammer to no avail. That’s my goto now in most cases.
It’s looks like you have the design process pretty well in hand.
Others have posted very similar questions to yours. I would search those out and leverage the info. Some go well beyond what the tutorials show and have several good minds pitching in with different approaches.
Not sure your design constraints. It looks like you could try using the “shell” tool. The shell could be 2 or 3 mm thick and sturdy enough not to need infill at all. Maybe add ribs for strength instead.
It’s more about temperature resilience. You may, or may not, have worked out that’s a car bonnet (“hood” I believe in your locale ) — and it gets a tad warm there. I believe PETG has a higher temperature resistance than PLA?
I haven’t compared PET G and PLA+ temps yet. UV is more important to me at the moment but that could change. I thought it might be behind the driver (convertible/ hard top).
Just looking at it in detail now — the first sketch image has turned out quite low resolution, and I can’t quite see how the wiggly bit works You’re not able to record a really quick video of it are you please? Or maybe just try and upload a higher resolution image?
) and I’m struggling to work out the simplest way to achieve it.
It’d be preferable if it were simpler and therefore a shorter print.
(incidentally, my test prints have been at a vastly reduced infill than I would use for the end product. I’m also printing PLA, whereas I’ll use PETG for the final item).
) — and it gets a tad warm there. I believe PETG has a higher temperature resistance than PLA? 
